Thursday, January 8, 2015

A Traveler's Tale

I was out on a ride with my buddy Chris and a couple of his fellow travelers the other day when we ran across one of those happenstance encounters that make your head spin when you think about it.
It was the day after the Isle of Vashon TT, a sunny day in late September of 2013, and Jim, who rode Chris’ hooligan bike, a Triumph Speed Triple with a Daytona motor, was due to fly back to Florida the next day.  People are starting to come in from around the country for the TT these days.  The other Al dug out his ’70 Bonneville for the ride, I was on my FXRS, and Chris was on his Vincent Black Shadow.
So we wound up near the top of Chinook Pass, where we took a lunch break near that long parking strip on the left side just before you get to the top.  There is an informal trail through the mountain meadow that leads to a rock formation by a stream that has earned the name Chris’ Rock.  As we unpacked, stripped off riding gear and pulled out our lunches, I saw a rider coming down the hill toward us.  He pulled in and parked.  I wandered over and checked out his bike, a BMW 1150GS P-D model that looked like it had been around the world twice.  “Where you from?”  I asked.  His name turned out to be Mat.  “France”, he said.  I said, “Cool, did you have your bike shipped to New York?”  “Oh, no,” he said.  “I left France three and a half years ago, heading east!  I came into the US from Canada and to Canada by boat from Russia.”  We had stumbled upon a world traveler, and the kid looked to be in his late 20s.  He represented every biker’s vicarious dream standing there in a worn Aerostich.  We invited him to lunch with us.
It turned out he was living on tuna fish and old bread these days, because he was running low on money and his final drive unit was failing, again.  He had been on Highway 97 in Yakima when he realized he had to repair it, and was heading back over the pass to try to make it as far as the Seattle BMW dealer when he made that fated stop in the parking lot.
At that point, this was the situation Mat was in:  He was running out of money, using his GPS to guide him into a strange town he had never visited in hopes of finding the parts to patch his final drive one more time, a place to work on the bike, and somewhere to stay.   He did what bikers always do on the road, see another group and pull in next to them, get off and stretch, say hi, admire all the bikes.
Mat himself is this amazing personality, open and friendly, self-deprecating and charming, even in his broken English.  He came off to this bunch of old-timers as a true saddle tramp, so of course we took him in.
The group escorted him to Chris’ house, which would be the center of operations for the next 5 days.  Chris put him up in the spare room and cleared a bike off the work stand to make room for the BMW.  The next day, Mat and Chris tore the final drive apart, and verified his worst fears about the bearings and u-joints.  They were toast.  I brought over some pulling equipment, and we disassembled everything, then Mat and I jumped in my truck and headed for the BMW dealer on Lake City Way and 15th NE in Seattle in the middle of rush hour.
I found an ad in Craigslist for some different BMW parts, and called that guy.  He heard the story, and gave me the name of one of the mechanics at that same BMW dealer.  So at the dealer, we talked to that guy, whose name we do not forget.  He showed us what can happen when the biker community pulls together to help one of their own.  He spent the rest of his shift, and much of his evening, helping Mat get the parts he needed, even going so far as to notice that one bearing we picked up was the wrong one, and met us in Renton on his way home to swap the bearings!  Everybody who heard the story, and met Mat, wanted to jump in and help.  From the sounds of it, this had been happening to him everywhere he went.

He got back on the road the following Sunday, heading south.  I have had one email from him so far, indicating he found a refuge in a hippy commune in the backwoods of southern Oregon, but that the wild geese were calling, and Guatemala sounded like a nice place to visit on your way to Terra Del Fuego.  Off he will go, a true wandering blithe spirit, and we wish him all the best.  His full name is Matthieu Hammelburg, he’s on Facebook as Mat Ham, and if he passes your way, tip your helmet to a man who is doing what you read about, thought about, maybe even dreamed about, but never quite actually went out and did.  More power to him.  :-{)}

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